For the DR's holy week, I took a pilgrimage south. It was fun. It would have been more fun if I hadn't eaten some bad pica pollo, fried chicken, in the capital the day before my journey. To put it mildly, my ass was smokin!
The South is very different from the North. I live in the Cibao Region – green, lush, full
of diverse vegetation and delicious fruits, mountains, rain, breeze, sandy
beaches. The South was gorgeous, don’t
get me wrong, but I wouldn’t change my site for anything. Because I lost my camera and I suck at posting pictures to this blog anyway, I'll do my best to describe the imagery.
The South – can’t beat the coastal
views. Rocky cliffs mixed with pebble
beaches, making the water a glowing blue with treacherous waves with gnarly rip
tides. PACKED guagua rides (I heard a story about one stuffed with something like
27 people that rolled over, but no one was hurt because no one shifted position
in the accident, all packed in there like sardines), less investment in
transportation we’ll say (roads and vehicles) inescapable heat, no clouds, no
rain, no breeze (in some areas), a more desert feel, sharper shrubbery instead
of the bountiful fruit bearing trees I’m used to.
I visited a batey
as well in the South. A batey is basically a sugarcane
plantation; modern day slavery run by large sugar cane companies. Picture the Dust Bowl: the town is a grid
with train tracks running through the center.
There is a lovely breeze, unfortunately it carries with it little
particles that mercilessly scratch your eyes.
There is a mix of Haitians and Dominicans all living on top of each
other, with a dividing line somewhere cutting the grid into barrios – Dominicans here, Haitians
there. Few kids have shoes. There is scarce wood to cook on a fogón (wood stove), so coal is
used.
Everyone is a few shades darker
than what I’m used to in the North.
There is delicious biskwit, Haitian
bread. People are wearing jeans, coats
and hoods in scorching heat…wouldn’t want to get any blacker. There is running water in the morning and
evening and a similar luz situation. Some people have a place to take care of
their bodily necessities, some people use plastic bags. There are acres and acres of caña, sugarcane, and a barracks next to
the fields where the “workers” live under armed guard. They often don’t have shoes either, not to
mention any semblance of a fair wage. I
understand caña is one of the
products that can be Fair Trade certified.
I would much like to see one of those plantations.
The scenery on the guagua
ride from North to South and Visa Versa is a gradual change. It’s strange to think how foreign I felt in
my site at first, and how comfortable I am now.
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